August 18, 2004

Speedometer Cable Removal

Before I removed the speedometer cable, I wanted to consult the Hayne's manual before I attempted anything. According to the directions, it looked relatively easy:

Here's what they say:

1. On pre-1973 models and 1973 and later non-Super Beetle models, open the front hood and remove the protective cover from the instrument panel.

Ours didn't have a protective cover

2. On 1973 and later Super Beetle models and convertibles, remove the instrument panel switch cluster (see Section 10).

Didn't have to worry about this, ours is a 1966

3. Working from the luggage compartment side on all pre-1973 models and 1973 and later non-Super Beetle models, or through the hole for the switch cluster on 1973 and later Super Beetle models and convertibles, unscrew the threaded fitting that attaches the speedometer cable to the speedometer assembly.

I did this earlier

4. Remove the circlip or cotter pin which secures the end of the speedometer cable to the wheel bearing dust cap (see illustration)

I don't have the illustration. I do, however, have a picture I took of the cotter pin on our wheel bearing dust cap:

I used a pair of pliers and it was no problem removing the cotter pin. Since it is easily replaced, I didn't mind it getting mangled.

5. Working from the back side of the wheel, pull the cable out of the steering knuckle.

Easier said than done. That thing has been in there for 30+ years. It didn't want to budge. A slight tap on the part that was sticking out from the dust cap helped dislodge it, so I could pull it out.

6. On pre-1973 models and 1973 and later non-Super Beetle models, pull the cable out of the guide channel, through the grommet in the vehicle body and out through the luggage compartment. On 1973 and later Super Beetles and convertibles, pull the cable through the hole in the dash.

Once I got it cleared of the steering knuckle, the rest was no problem:

The rest of the steps are for re-installing the cable. We don't need that right now.

While I was at it, I sprayed the bolts on the steering linkage. The one that's circled will be removed, so that we can take out the steering column.

Posted by Valkyre at 11:34 PM

August 11, 2004

Removing the Hood

In the last entry, we didn't want to remove the hood until we removed the bracket that was holding both the steering column and the 6 volt fuse. The bolts seemed to be held on by 10mm square nuts. However, even with several days of spraying WD-40, the square "nuts" didn't budge.

Maybe they aren't supposed to. It could be like the fenders where they are welded onto the body. So what's the problem? The bolts on the other side. You get to them underneath the ignition switch that is mounted to the column:

There is no way to get a wrench around them, nor are there any slots for screwdrivers:

So, how do we remove them? We don't have any idea..... Since it's obvious that anyone walking by will not be able to remove the bracket, we left it as it is, until we figure it out. I did , however, remove the 6 volt fuse. That was just clipped on.

Now, it was just a matter of removing 4 bolts from the hood hinges. And, this is how it now looks with the hood removed.

Next, we will start to remove the interior. But, before we do that, I am considering removing the speedometer cable:

It looks like I will have to remove the wheel hub to gain access to it:

Posted by Valkyre at 11:39 PM

August 02, 2004

Removing More Things From Under the Hood

Before we removed the hood, there are still a few more things that need to be taken out. I started by removing the gas gauge:

This was relatively easy, as the bolt holding it on was only finger tight. After I removed the bolt, the bracket came free and I removed the gauge from behind:

Now, we are left with yet another empty hole on the dash:

This is what the dash looks like so far, from the inside, with everything removed:

Next, I wanted to remove the fuse panel:

I disconnected all the wires that were connected to it. Then, I pushed the tab, that's over on the right, to the side. This is the only thing that it holding in the fuse panel. Once I slid it to the right, the fuse panel was free to slide out:

I wanted to remove the bracket that is holding in the 6 volt fuse:

This is tied in with the steering column from the inside. I looked at the column, under the dash, and the other end of the bolts were smooth, similar to carriage bolts. The nuts are what I circled in red. They are flat and square. And, they need a 10mm box end wrench to be removed. Unfortunately, neither Mike, nor I, could find the 10mm wrench. This will have to wait until we find it.

In the meantime, I decided to remove the glovebox door. It was only being held on by four phillips head screws:

Now, we have yet another hold in the dash:

Since I was removing things from the dash, I decided to remove the ignition switch. I needed to remove the wires that were connected to it from the back:

Then, from inside the car, it's only a matter of removing on phillips head screw located under the dash:

After that, the whole assembly pulled out:

While I was at it, I decided to prepare to remove the "non=stock" steering wheel. Eventually, the whole steering column will be removed. I took off the horn button first:

This is where we are at now:

And, again, I sprayed the hood bolts with good ol' WD-40. I also hit the two bolts that needed the 10mm wrench, which we couldn't find. When we do find, or buy, the wrench, this will make them easier to remove.

Posted by Valkyre at 10:16 PM